This
section
is
for
the
person
that
would
like
information
&/or
help
to
make
their
own
parts
&
repair
there
own
lights
or
stoves.
Also
if
any
one
is
willing
to
contribute
their
information.
This
will
help
others
to
improve
their
collection
&
keep
this
vital
Hobby
interesting
&
enjoyable.
This
is
the
most
suitable
way
I
have
found.
(1)
Complete
Cleaning
(2)
Soldering
legs
to
a
stove
(3)
Removing
Unwanted
Solder
(4)
Why
Isn't
this
Pump
Pumping
a
Full
Stroke
(5)
Why
is
my
stove
/light
loosing
pressure
(6)
Leaking
Pump
Valve
&
Repairing
(7)
Soot
&
Smoke
(8)
Making
Leather
Pump
Buckets
(9)
Making
Legs
For
Stoves
(1)
Complete
Cleaning
Completely
strip
including
valve,
Jet
&
Filter
(light).
When
cleaning
I
hose
off
the
parts
quickly
&
hose
the
inside
of
the
tank.
Separate
the
brass
parts
from
the
steel
parts.
Mix
a
solution
of
one
dessert
spoon
of
Citric
acid
in
10
lts
(2.5gl)
water.
Submerge
all
the
brass
parts,
Then
let
them
soak,
checking
on
them
frequently.
Brass
parts
will
turn
coppery
(pink)
if
left
in
this
solution.
This
will
polish
off
quite
easy.
Cleaning
will
take
an
hour
or
two,
depending
on
strength
of
citric.
Remove
all
parts
giving
them
a
rinse
&
light
scrubbing
in
clean
soapy
water.
Rinse
all
parts
in
10lts
water
&
1
dessert
spoon
bi-carbonate
of
soda
(this
will
kill
the
acid).
Clean
the
steel
parts
the
same
way
with
less
time
in
the
citric
acid
mix
.
Don't
put
enamel
parts
in
this
mix,
it
will
fade
the
colour.
Rinse
the
tank
with
mentholated
spirits
(this
will
absorb
small
quantities
of
water).
(2)
Soldering
legs
to
a
stove
Your
requirements
here
are
Solder,
Heat
&
flux
(cleaner).
Soldering
is
like
using
Glue
it
MUST
BE
CLEAN
core
solder
has
flux
in
it,
I
find
this
is
not
good
enough
on
its
own
on
a
big
old
job
.
There
is
different
cleaners.
Some
will
clean
with
out
heat.
Most
cleaners,
works
when
applied
hot,
so
this
is
what
we
will
go
with.
Clean
the
surface
with
a
fine
sand
paper
or
something
like
that.
Don't
scratch
outside
where
you
are
going
to
solder.
Then
Heat
with
a
fine
pencil
blow
torch.
While
hot
apply
some
cleaner
with
a
artists
brush.
This
may
have
to
be
repeated
2
or
4
times.
Being
careful
not
to
clean
out
side
the
leg
boundaries.
At
no
time
you
want
it
red
hot.
Heat
the
tank
again,
then
wipe
the
solder
along
the
tank
it
should
melt
on.
This
is
called
tinning
the
job
.
At
this
stage
you
only
want
a
light
coverage
(less
than
0.25
mm
thick).
It
must
be
totally
covered
not
in
lumps
of
hit
&
miss.
If
this
is
the
case
heat
&
clean
until
it
is
covering
evenly.
You
may
have
to
scrub
with
water.
Then
heat
&
clean.
After
this
has
been
achieved.
You
then
do
the
same
with
the
leg.
Putting
the
leg
on.
Now
comes
the
tricky
part.
I
have
been
told
a
large
jubilee
clamp
(hose
clamp)
will
hold
the
leg
in
place
while
heating.
I
prefer
to
do
this
free
hand.
But
experience
comes
in
to
play
here.
When
you
are
all
set
up,
nice
and
comfortable
(if
free
hand
is
being
used).
Heat
the
leg
only.
If
clamped
until
you
see
the
solder
is
just
melting
then
stop
heating.
If
free
hand
is
used
Heat
the
leg
then
hold
it
in
place
(with
out
shaking)
you
will
see
the
solder
melting,
if
not
more
heat.
In
both
cases
position
the
leg
correctly.
You
should
not
require
more
solder
to
hold
the
leg
.
If
you
try
to
add
more
solder
this
is
where
it
will
get
messy.
(3)
Removing
Unwanted
Solder
We
have
a
problem
here.
It
is
so
easy
to
get
unwanted
solder
on
your
job
&
a
lot
harder
to
get
it
off.
I
have
only
found
1
successful
way
to
remove
this
solder.
You
can
file
the
solder
down
taking
care
not
to
mark
the
brass
(this
is
not
a
good
practice
I
all
ways
mark
the
brass
),
or
Heat
the
unwanted
solder,
when
it
is
melted
shake
the
tank
allowing
the
solder
to
fall
off.
you
must
be
careful
here.
If
too
much
heat
is
applied
it
can
release
the
joint
you
are
trying
to
seal.
Then
with
an
electric
buffing
pad,
buff
the
remainder
off.
This
is
not
a
fast
process,
but
it
does
not
scratch
the
tank.
(4)
Why
Isn't
this
Pump
Pumping
a
Full
Stroke
There
is
several
possibilities
here:
Your
leather
bucket
is
dry,
hard
&
not
flexible.
Add
a
few
drops
of
oil
to
it.
Then
work
the
bucket
outwards
keeping
oil
on
it
all
the
time.
It
is
better
to
soak
the
bucket
in
oil
for
a
day
or
two.
Then
stretch
the
bucket
as
above.
Even
new
buckets
require
oiling
before
using.
Check
for
splits
or
cracks
in
the
leather.
Check
that
the
leather
bucket
is
not
too
large.
This
will
cause
the
bucket
to
crease
inwards
and
allow
air
to
bypass
the
bucket.
Another
common
problem
is
the
pump
rod
jumps
in
when
you
pull
it
out.
There
is
only
1
cause
for
this
&
that
is
the
air
isn't
getting
to
the
pressure
side
of
the
leather
bucket.
It
is
a
common
belief
that
the
air
gets
on
the
pressure
side
between
the
bucket
and
the
inner
wall
of
the
pump
tube.
This
is
not
the
case.
In
fact
the
air
flows
between
the
pump
rod
and
through
the
centre
of
the
leather
bucket
(or
bucket
holder)
to
the
other
side
of
the
bucket.
So
the
cause
of
this
problem
is
the
inner
hole
in
the
bucket
is
too
tight
on
the
pump
rod
&/or
the
bucket
retainer
nut
is
too
tight.
The
bucket
(or
bucket
carrier
2
types)
should
be
loose
to
allow
air
to
flow
to
the
other
side
of
the
bucket.
(5)
Why
is
my
stove
/light
loosing
pressure
To
locate
this
leak.
Pump
&
pressurise
the
tank.
Then
put
it
in
a
bucket
of
water.
Bubbles
will
appear
at
the
leak.
To
loose
pressure
with
out
any
fuel
leakage.
The
leak
has
got
to
be
above
fuel
level.
The
most
common
place
is
the
filler
cap
seal.
Replace
the
seal
then
test
again.
Some
tanks
can
get
cracks
in
them.
Soldering
spoils
the
appearance
but
it
does
work.
There
is
a
substance
that
can
be
put
in
the
tank
sealing
from
the
inside,
this
is
a
better
way
but
is
more
expensive.
Solder
joints
is
easy
to
repair
by
resoldering
it.
(6)
Leaking
Pump
Valve
&
Repairing
Apart
from
air
leaking
from
here
when
the
fuel
is
low,
fuel
will
also
come
out
when
you
pull
the
pump
rod
out,
with
the
fuel
level
high.
If
the
air
is
coming
from
around
the
pump
rod.
It
is
no
good
trying
to
seal
it
off
at
the
pump
rod
&
guide
nut.
I
have
seen
this
on
some
occasions.
The
problem
here
is
the
valve
at
the
bottom
of
the
pump
tube.
There
are
2
types
here,
1
is
a
flat
screwdriver
slot.
The
more
common
type
is
2
flat
sides
on
the
head
of
the
valve.
This
one
requires
a
special
tool
to
unscrew
it.
So
this
becomes
a
problem
to
remove.
A
tool
can
be
made
for
this,
but
extreme
caution
must
be
emphasized
here
when
making
this
tool,
for
damage
can
be
caused
to
the
valve
easily
if
it
is
incorrectly
made.
Once
you
have
the
valve
removed,
repairs
is
simple
enough
to
do.
On
the
bottom
of
this
valve
is
what
looks
like
a
screw
driver
slot
.
DON'T
USE
THIS
SLOT.
If
this
slot
is
used
it
will
rip
apart
&
be
permanently
damaged.
With
a
pair
of
pliers
grip
just
below
the
external
thread
and
a
spanner
on
the
2
flats,
unscrew
from
there.
When
apart
there
is
a
spring,
a
seal
carrier
&
a
little
seal
in
the
carrier
.
This
seal
has
got
to
be
replaced
&
possibly
the
spring.
When
it
is
assembled
again
test
before
fitting
in
the
tank.
Test
this
by
sucking
on
the
inlet
side
of
the
valve.
Then
putting
your
tong
over
the
hole.
The
vacuum
should
hold
the
valve
there.
If
it
falls
away
it
is
leaking.
Rectify
before
fitting
to
the
tank.
The
seal
from
the
valve
to
the
tank
may
require
replacing
as
well.
Don't
over
tighten
the
valve
when
refitting
to
the
tank.
(7)
Soot
&
Smoke
This
is
caused
by
not
enough
air
mixed
with
the
fuel
(burning
too
rich).
No
fuel
burns
as
a
liquid
form,
it
is
all
converted
in
to
vapour
in
some
way.
If
you
could
put
a
lit
match
in
petrol
with
out
going
through
the
vapours
it
would
go
out.
Of
corse
the
temperature
of
the
petrol
puts
off
the
vapours
&
this
is
what
burns
.
Kerosene
requires
heating
more
than
petrol
to
vaporise
the
equivalent.
One
reason
for
smoking/sooting
this
is
the
fuel
is
not
hot
enough
to
vaporise.
This
is,
liquid
is
coming
out
of
the
jet,
instead
of
fuel
mixed
with
air
(
this
is
atoms
or
vapour).
Insufficient
preheating
is
the
biggest
cause.
Another
is
the
jet
orifice
(jet
hole)
too
large
The
jet
is
leaking
fuel
through
the
thread.
With
lights
;
The
air
tubes
is
blocked
or
partly.
I
thank
Don
Howell
for
supplying
this
interesting
posting:
"Understand
the
Burning
Action
&
Sooting
This
is
relating
to
lights
but
the
same
principle
applies
with
stoves
with
sooting.
I
feel
it
deserves
a
posting
here,
for
it
will
help
people
understand
the
operation
of
their
stove.
From
the
book
"Lanterns
That
Lit
Our
World"
By
Anthony
Hobson.
It
states:
The
liquid
from
the
mantle
(BURNER)
boils
the
liquid
gasoline
&
makes
a
gas
vapour
that
is
consumed
in
the
mantle
(burner).
In
a
properly
functioning
kerosene
lantern
(STOVE)
it
is
the
fuel
that
burns
not
the
wick.
It
is
more
complicated
than
that
because
liquid
kerosene
won't
burn.
The
liquid
fuel
must
be
vaporized
by
the
heat
of
the
near
by
flame
(this
being
the
burner)
and
mixed
with
oxygen
before
it
will
burn.
Adding
more
oxygen
to
the
flame
makes
it
burn
HOTTER
&
BRIGHTER.
The
light
from
an
open
flame,
as
in
a
candle,
can
not
exceed
1
candle
power
because
it
has
only
oxygen
from
the
surrounding
to
draw
from.
If
enough
oxygen
is
added
to
a
flame
it
can
burn
through
steel.
This
is
how
an
acetylene
cutting
torch
works.
Burning
more
fuel
with
out
adding
more
oxygen
just
produces
incomplete
combustion.
A
smoky
yellow
flame
is
the
result
of
incomplete
combustion.
Soot
is
almost
pure
carbon
from
fuel
NOT
CONVERTED
to
carbon-dioxide
burned
with
the
lack
of
oxygen.
"
(8)
Making
Leather
Pump
Buckets
Here
you
will
need
a
mould
.
This
will
consist
of
a
tube
the
same
inside
size
as
your
pump
tube
the
bucket
is
for
.
An
inner
section
the
same
size
as
the
washer
that
fits
inside
your
leather
pump
when
fitted
on
your
pump
rod,
only
about
13
mm
longer
.
Your
leather
thickness
will
need
to
be
1/2
the
difference
of
the
diameter
of
these
two.
Soak
the
leather
in
water
for
about
1/2
hour
then
press
the
leather
&
inner
mould
into
the
outer
section.
Let
dry
may
take
6
hours
or
more.
Trim
off
surplus
leather.
Remove
the
leather
bucket
&
put
in
your
centre
hole
.
Oil
the
leather
before
using.
(9)
Making
Legs
For
Stoves
You
need
to
clamp
the
leg
that
you
want
to
copy,
on
a
piece
of
steel
8mm
thick.
Then
drill
a
10mm
hole
at
the
start
of
the
leg.
This
is
your
stop
guide.
Another
hole
1/2"
from
that
hole
on
the
opposite
side
of
the
first
bend.
This
is
to
stop
the
rod
from
moving
when
you
are
bending
the
leg.
Then
a
10mm
hole
in
the
steel
at
every
in
side
bend.
Then
put
a
bolt
in
the
first
3
holes.
Heat
the
rod
you
are
going
to
make
the
legs
from.
Only
heat
where
you
are
going
to
bend.
Clamp
your
mould.
Put
the
rod
in
the
mould
when
red
hot
&
pull
it
around
the
3rd
bolt.
Continue
this
until
all
the
bends
is
complete.
Cut
it
off
at
the
required
length
.
It
will
take
a
little
practice
to
get
them
all
the
same.
Don't
heat
a
large
area
at
a
time,
or
it
will
be
a
large
bend,
instead
of
a
tight
bend. |